The Fabric Certifications Worth Knowing

Think of fabric certifications like buying eggs. You walk into the grocery store and see “free-range” on a carton. Sounds good, right?

But free range only tells you one part of the story. It doesn’t necessarily tell you everything about how those hens were raised, what they were fed, or how the farm operates. You want to look for a label that says "Certified Humane", by the way, but I digress.

Fabric certifications work the same way.

There is not one certification that tells you everything, but there are important ones to look for. Here are the ones to look for:

1. GOTS 

GOTS = Global Organic Textile Standard. GOTS is one of the certifications we pay attention to because it goes beyond simply saying “organic.” It addresses organic fiber content as well as environmental and social criteria throughout textile processing, including chemical restrictions, wastewater treatment and traceability.

2. OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100

OEKO-TEX® tests finished textiles for a range of harmful substances, with stricter requirements for products that come into more intensive contact with skin. It does not mean a garment is sustainable, ethically made or made from natural fibers. A polyester shirt can be OEKO-TEX® certified. So can an organic cotton shirt.

3. FSC 

Fsc =  Forest Stewardship Council. This one is particularly useful when you’re shopping for fabrics made from trees. Viscose, modal and lyocell are made from cellulose, often from wood pulp. FSC certification can help verify that the forest-based raw materials come from responsibly managed sources.

4. Fair Trade

Fair Trade holds standards around worker rights, wages/premiums and working conditions. This is something we look for when evaluating if a brand is "people-first".

Your cheat sheet

GOOD Materials

1. Linen / flax: Breathable, durable and made from a natural plant fiber.
2. Hemp: A durable natural fiber that can be grown with relatively low agricultural inputs.
3. Organic cotton: A better starting point than conventional cotton. Look for meaningful certification such as GOTS when possible.
4. Wool: Naturally durable, insulating and long-lasting. Responsible sourcing matters.
5. Silk: Natural, biodegradable and incredibly long-lasting when cared for properly.
6. Lyocell / TENCEL™: Cellulose-based rather than petroleum-based. Look at the specific fiber and sourcing claims.

PAUSE & Look Closer

1. Viscose / rayon / modal: Cellulose-based, but their environmental impact varies significantly depending on sourcing and production.
2. Recycled polyester: Uses existing material rather than creating more virgin polyester, but it’s still a synthetic plastic fiber and can shed microfibers.
3. Elastane / spandex:  Sometimes necessary for stretch and performance. You don’t have to eliminate it, just pay attention to how much of a garment is made from it.

THINK TWICE

1. Polyester: A petroleum-derived synthetic fiber with microfiber and end-of-life concerns.
2. Acrylic: A synthetic plastic fiber with microfiber-shedding concerns.
3. Nylon / polyamide: Synthetic fibers with fossil-resource and microfiber considerations.

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The only way we can make better choices is to know better! And that's what HSB is here to show you.